Our Water Tank Cleaning Process

Step 1 — Drain the tank

The tank is emptied with a motor so that the floor, walls and corners are exposed. We switch off the pump that fills the tank and close the inlet so fresh water doesn't flow in while we work.

Why it matters: you can't clean what's under water. Draining also lets our team see the condition of the tank — the depth of sludge, any cracks, the state of the lid and fittings.

Before we arrive: fill a few buckets if you'll need water during the cleaning.

Step 2 — Remove the sludge with a vacuum

Settled sludge — fine silt, organic matter and dead biofilm — is lifted out of the tank with a vacuum machine.

Why it matters: this is the step most often skipped. If a tank is scrubbed with sludge still on the floor, the brush and water jet stir the sludge into the water, and it simply settles back after refilling. Flushing it out through the outlet is worse: it goes into your pipes, taps, geyser and RO filter. Removing it first means the rest of the cleaning is working on the tank surface, not on mud.

Step 3 — Scrub and pressure-wash

Walls, floor, corners and ceiling are scrubbed and pressure-washed to break down biofilm and algae. We pay attention to the underside of the lid, around the inlet and float valve, and the joints where walls meet the floor.

Why it matters: biofilm is a slimy layer of bacteria that sticks to tank walls and shields them from the chlorine in supply water. It has to be physically broken up. On plastic tanks, our team uses soft brushes and controlled pressure so the smooth inner layer isn't scratched.

Step 4 — Disinfect

An anti-bacterial disinfectant is applied to the cleaned surfaces and left for its contact time. The tank is then rinsed before refilling.

Why it matters: disinfection kills the microorganisms that scrubbing loosens but doesn't remove completely. It only works properly on a clean surface — applying disinfectant on top of sludge wastes most of it. That's why it comes fourth, not first. Read more on our water tank disinfection page.

Step 5 — Photo proof and handover

You get before-and-after photos on WhatsApp. The lid or manhole cover is closed securely, the inlet is reopened and the tank is ready to refill.

Why it matters: most people never see the inside of their own tank. Photos let you confirm the work, compare with the next cleaning, and keep a record — useful for landlords, RWAs and businesses.

See the difference

Genuine before-and-after photos from our jobs are shared with each customer on WhatsApp. We're building a public gallery with customer permission; until then, the illustration above shows what typically accumulates between cleanings.

How long does the process take?

What we need from you

• Access to the tank (roof key, manhole cleared of vehicles).
• The location of the motor switch.
• A power point within reach.
• Someone to confirm the result at the end.

Doing it yourself?

You can keep a tank in reasonable condition between professional cleanings. Our guide on how to clean a water tank at home covers what's safe to do yourself and when to call professionals — especially for underground tanks, which are confined spaces.

After the cleaning: keeping the tank clean longer

• Keep the lid closed and weighted down — most contamination enters through a loose lid.
• Check the overflow and vent pipes have a mesh cover so insects and birds can't get in.
• If you have a sump, keep the manhole sealed and above the level of surface water in the monsoon.
• Book the next cleaning in 3–6 months; the before-and-after photos help you compare.